One Year in Asia.....

One Year in Asia.

One year in Asia and what a huge change in my life. Taiwan certainly is, different to the UK but I have grown to love it here very quickly. My life has changed so much in one year, it is actually quite dizzying writing this and thinking about where I was a year ago compared to where I am now.

The wooden panel closing on the box crate with all our stuff in it and being towed away not to be seen again for three months. Saying farewell to friends and family, getting on the plane, nervous and excited about what the future held and if I could make it as a photographer in Taiwan, seems both like yesterday and a million miles away.

Arriving in Taiwan, I found the realisation this is home now, settled quite easily. I set about putting feelers out to find the lay of the land and discovered one of Taiwan's greatest assets, how friendly the people are, this friendliness continues to impress me. What a beautiful place filled with, in the majority of my experience so far, really lovely people. Making contact with the photographic community here was a breath of fresh air after the often hostile London experience. Unsurprisingly some of my best friends are photographers in the UK, but these guys I have known for years. A lot of the newer photographers I met (new to me anyway) in London, held a certain degree of animosity toward other photographers, I will honestly hold my hands up to being guilty of this from time to time, here though it seems to be somewhat different. Perhaps some of the animosity in London is because 37% of all UK based photographers are there gunning for the work. From what I have learned this year, I know if I were to return to the UK and apply my new knowledge, life would be very different. This year really has been a great experience, not only culturally but vocationally also, as you will see by the end of this blog, I have learned a lot and come along way. There is still along way to go, but with all the support I have received from all of you, even if this is the first time you have looked at my blog (I hope it won't be the last), I am so grateful, it really is appreciated. I get very excited if I get 100 page views, if you guys all shared my blogs, and it started to really grow I think I may burst. Don't let that put you off though ok, get sharing, make comments, ask questions and engage with me. I make my photographs and write these blogs to reach out and engage with all of you, so a little return is very welcome.

After a couple of months in Taiwan I had met a few people and got my first shoot. It was for Travel in Taiwan (click to see issue), I had made a meeting and shown what work I had. When I got the call to ask if I wanted to shoot I was very pleased, better still, they wanted me to shoot for two features. The first was of an organic Kumquat farmer on his plantation in Yilan. and the second was a portrait of an Indigenous artist named Demedeman.

Around the same time, I found myself getting involved with a project called Tap Root. The project was bringing together Maori people from New Zealand, and Indigenous Taiwanese people, as they share a common history. Happily I found myself enjoying my first train journey in Taiwan as I headed down to Taichung . Here I was to meet up with the group and hang with them to document their visit for a couple of days. What a great bunch the Maori's were, it took a minute for me to ingratiate myself with them, but by the time we got off the bus to the night market they clocked I was very relaxed, positive about Taiwan and all about joining in the fun with them. I am happy and proud to call these warm-hearted people I met and photographed friends. Although we only spent a couple of days together it was a great experience, and one I found at times very moving, especially being there when they performed the Haka infront of the Indigenous Taiwanese. Thanks to links such as Facebook we stay in touch, and continue to joke with each other. I received a new nickname, "Duncle". I am told that uncle is a term of endearment, however I am not totally convinced that they're not making a little joke at my expense. If they are, I think it's cool they are relaxed enough with me to do so, what a compliment. 

English is most certainly not the first language in Taiwan, it is Mandarin, there is also definite distinction between the way Chinese speak Mandarin and Taiwanese speak Mandarin. Of course there are older dialects spoken in Taiwan, one thing at a time though, alright? I had started school to learn the language fairly quickly after I got here, other than the couple of days shooting the above projects I was making the journey on a daily basis to school. I was being taught BoPoMoFo, a phonic learning system here in Taiwan to begin the process of learning Mandarin. I want to learn enough of the language to communicate, ideally I will be able to converse properly in a few years. For now though a basic level as a foundation is better than nothing at all. I enjoyed the first month of classes, the teachers were lovely and the class was fun, it seemed I was moving forward. After the month in class it was time to head back to the UK for a couple of weeks visit, school was on hold so I would just have to practice on my own for a bit.

Prior to leaving Taiwan for the UK, I had designed a 7 inch promo book from my on going portrait series. I had had it printed and mailed it out to editors with a plan to contact them once back in the UK to follow up. Hitting the phone I managed to make arrangements to head down to London and meet some editors. It was a very positive experience, boosted my confidence and reassured me that I was moving in the right direction. I am a big fan of actual printed work, I take great pride in my portfolio. Given the choice between being handed an iPad (other devices are available), or a leather bound book, with beautifully printed images on high quality paper, which would you prefer and be more impressed with? I want my book to reflect that I appreciate quality, I aspire to create quality photographs consistently and want to show this to the best of my ability. Judging from the reactions I got this is what I had begun to achieve. The phone wasn't suddenly ringing off the hook, but the meetings had boosted my confidence and that was just what I needed.

The trip to the UK was short but sweet and soon enough I was back in Taiwan, deciding I should concentrate on school again I booked myself on to the next level course. Having enjoyed the teaching styles of the two teachers my class had for the first month I had hoped for the same teachers again for this months course. Sadly this did not happen, the course was split into spoken language and written characters. I was very happy to discover on of my previous teachers would be taking the character class, but the language teacher was new. Honestly, I struggled. I could not really understand my new teacher at all.  I was the only person in the class coming from a western country with a Germanic based language, the rest were all from Asian countries. I am not suggesting that all Asian languages are the same, of course they aren't. I know that they are not all tonal languages also, however some of the structure is similar and also some of the sounds and rhythm. My ears had tuned in to my previous teachers, but I could not for the life of me tune in to the new one or understand a word of what she was saying. It was depressing, I found myself stressed about going to school, we do not learn well in a stressed environment. What I should have done was get a refund and looked elsewhere, but I pressed on, it wasn't to last. The final straw came when the one teacher that I could understand from my previous class was replaced by a lady whose voice just sounded like a squeaky door. To the surprise of my predominantly female, and mostly Japanese classmates, I stood up, put my books in my bag, apologised, and walked out of the class. Have I given up on the language, of course not, I am learning by myself, my listening comprehension has improved, my vocabulary is growing and I am doing ok. I can't have a conversation just yet, it is going to take a while but I can manage to get about and do what I need to. I even managed to open a bank account all on my own the other day, check me out. My goal is three years, I think that is realistic if I continue to practice. My Taiwanese friends and family are helping me too, like I said they are very friendly, nice and above all patient with me.

Freed up from the three hour commute and two hours in class it was back to concentrating on work. My wife's old boss got in touch, two of her daughters wanted to know if I would teach them photography. I wasn't sure if I could but I thought why not give it ago, and so began a month of lessons. Amanda and Alisha were good students, they were keen and I think would have been with me everyday given the chance. I tried to keep some structure, starting with camera basics, exposure, depth of field, different types of lenses etc... I wanted to make it fun too, I know I learn better from practical lessons and so we would set up lights, make product shots, portraits, balance and overpower sunlight. I would set them projects, they would mostly fail to do them, but it didn't really matter as long as it gave them something to think about. The feedback was good, I hope they learned something and will put that into practice in the future. Actually, having recently spoken with Amanda, I am sure that they will. 

I organised a photoshoot for my students so they could put into practice what they had learned and really experience what it was like on set for real. As a result of the annual tomb sweeping ceremony here in Taiwan the girls had to pull out of the shoot which was a real shame. Not wanting to cancel and let down the model and make-up artist (mua), I quickly found an assistant and continued with the shoot. The shoot itself was ok, I learned a lesson about how fast we can loose the light in Taipei, and also that common sense and logic is not something everyone is blessed with. I came away from the shoot not one, but two umbrellas lighter than when it started. On a very positive note though, I met Crystal for the first time. She was our hair and mua, this was a meeting that has gone on to prove rather fortuitous. Crystal is not only a hair and mua, she is a stylist with a fantastic eye. If that is not enough, she is a talented musician and one half of Dronetonics. Dronetonics are a band based here in Taipei, they have just recently released their first album, and are well worth checking out. A month or so later we made a shoot together and not long after this I was making promo photographs Dronetonics. We are working on making a couple of fashion concept shoots which I am buzzing about, these will be shot before I leave in a few weeks to spend Christmas in the UK.

I guess we are about 6 months in now and as you can gather I'd been getting along ok, I had had a couple of magazine shoots, a project which raised my profile, a few good meetings in the UK a month of teaching photography and found someone who is great to work with. It was at about this time I got a call from Marcus. I had met Marcus to get tickets for a Grandmaster Flash gig, which was excellent by the way. Marcus is a DJ, promoter and creates events in Taiwan with two other guys, together they make up Frog in a Sock. Each summer they hold weekly pool parties, I was approached and asked if I was interested in shooting the parties for them. It sounded like fun, there was a tickle in it, although not huge, it would also provide a good opportunity to build my reputation. The pool parties gave me a chance to meet a lot of people and get my work seen and also give people the chance to see how I go about my business. The first party was a challenge to say the least, the whole six hours I was at the pool it rained torrentially. I worked hard that day and no messing, not to mention the efforts in post. These efforts paid off, the guys were pleased and the feedback from the girls at the party was good, I was booked again, not just for one, but for every party I could make it to. Thankfully the weather for the rest of the summer was glorious, the reputation for the party grew, in no small part as a result of my photographs. My ethos for the party is to get into the scene, I shoot on a wide angle for the party so I can get close to create a sense of involvement for the viewer, I want them to feel part of it. My shots clearly reflected the fun people are having and by engaging with my subject and having fun while I was making the shots I soon became known around the pool. The people knew I would make them look good in my shots, my reputation was definitely growing, as was my friend base. The numbers grew at the pool, the last party I could do was attended by over eight hundred, and the poolside was full up by 15:00. I have to say that I felt proud of that, obviously it wasn't all down to me, but I felt part of something, it felt good and was fun too. As a result of the pool parties growing reputation and success the season was extended by two weeks, the grand finale saw the pool side heaving with over one thousand revelers enjoying the last throngs of the Taipei summer. 

Along with everything else I have continued shooting my portrait series, having made a couple more by the second third of the year. Joe Henley a writer I met whilst shooting for Travel in Tawian was the first, he is also a musician, singing in several bands, one of which is Revilement. I spoke about Joe in my last blog as he commissioned me to make his portrait for the jacket of his novel. The second portrait was of a Peruvian DJ, living in Taichung who was/is studying vinyl art, as in record sleeve design I think this is part of what he does, I wasn't quite sure to be honest, it had been a rushed morning getting down to see him for this portrait. One thing I can tell you for sure is that he was a Red Bull freestyle finalist in Taiwan this year, has started producing his own tunes, and is also a polyglot, very impressive. His name is Zynko.

I can hear you all wondering why I didn't stay and shoot the last few parties at the pool, after all it sounds like so much fun right? It is simple, something very exciting happened. It was the most exciting thing all year so far, and very exciting for my career too. I got a shout from National Geographic Traveller UK (NGTUK) with an assignment for me. They wanted me to go to Japan for them to make photographs to illustrate an article. I was to go to Tokyo to photograph street food and the Tsukiji Fish Market, then off to document Hakone and Ryoken (traditional inns and hot spring spas). I wrote about this a couple of blogs back, so go and check that for a full story. The article appeared in the October edition of the magazine, both in print and on the digital version. As a result of this work and connection with National Geographic I have been interviewed by the WPO (World Photography Organisation) and featured on their site (click the link to see this), I have also recently been interviewed by NGTUK, I'm to be featured in the January/February issue. To top all that of I have had the great honor of being selected as a judge for the NGTUK photography competition. These interviews have only happened in the last few weeks, along with being asked to judge such a prestigious competition I am buzzed from it for sure and it feels great.

I covered the nightmare I came back from Japan previously too. The nightmare of hard drive faliure and the massive re-organisation of all my files. I am doing my best to stay up to date with it now, so far so good, and Backblaze seems to be running well and doing it's job, it was a hard lesson learned, and I was lucky to have already backed up the originals. The only thing really lost was hours of post processing work, it could have been so much worse. 

During one of my visits to Hong Kong I had made some contacts and shown my work, from these I received a commission to shoot a portrait. The portrait was of a very successful Taiwanese artist and the man behind Franz Porcelain. I went along to the location and scouted out where I wanted to make the shots, I was going to be pressured for time so the more preparation I could do the better. The morning of the shoot arrived, the shot list was fairly straight forward. The aim was to make three portraits in different locations in the building, we had been told we had an hour for this. After that the client wanted some product shots. Finally, if we could, I wanted to get into the design room to photograph the craftsmen and women at work. It was lucky I had gone along to scout the location, as soon as we got into the building and up to where we needed to start setting up, we were informed that our shoot time had been cut dramatically. It would seem that we were feeling the fallout from a previous photography crew taking all day, and too much of Mr. Chen's time a week earlier. So now we had 30 minutes to set up the lights in three locations and make the portraits. The rest of the shots needed to be done and in the bag by lunchtime before the staff went out to eat.. We were up against it for sure, so without further a do it was all hands on deck. Needless to say we got it done, it wasn't perfect but we made it, Mr Chen's comment was that we were very efficient, sometimes there is just no time for faffing. A few months later I received the copy, it turned out looking pretty good. I would like to say thank you to Michael Geier for stepping up to assist on this shoot, he will say he didn't do anything, but this was not true, it was a difficult shoot and he proved himself invaluable. 

Shortly after this shoot for Silkroad, I was back in Hong Kong again. It was a longer visit this time, three weeks in Hong Kong followed by three weeks in the UK. Knowing I was going to be visiting for a while it seemed prudent to make sure I wasn't idle. Arrangements had been made to shoot several portraits for "The Collectors" while I was there. In total I managed to shoot six, I could post them here, but I am planning a new gallery on my website for all the fresh portraits I have made this year for the series. They are a whole different blog anyway which will appear in the future. Making all the new friends and contacts in Hong Kong was really cool, in keeping with all the other people this project has lead me to meet, they were all lovely, warm and friendly. I very much am looking for to my future trips to Hong Kong, no longer will they be predominantly solitary affairs, but a great opportunity to catch up with people, hang out and experience more of  Hong Kong. I did end up on a nightbus adventure after having a drink with one of the people that I photographed. I went on a three hour excursion to the New Territories, it wasn't that I got on the wrong bus, it just happened to be going the wrong way!

Of course I made other photographs in Hong Kong/Kowloon it is an interesting place to photograph as you will have seen from my work previously. I even started playing around with some time-lapse experiments, I have bit to learn but it is fun to play around with and will get around to finishing them up at somepoint. For now though I will post a couple of shots of our view from the apartment in Kowloon.

After Hong Kong it was back to the UK, I didn't do too much other than pop in to Conde Nast Traveller which was cool. I had had a meeting in Hong Kong which was great, in this meeting I received advice about who to approach with my portrait work once back in Taiwan, to some degree this was repeated during my meeting at Conde Nast. It is very satisfying that my portrait work is rated by some top editors around the world, my favorite subject to photograph is people, and above all their portraits. On this trip to London I didn't have time to organise a meeting with the Conde Nast suggestion, I am back next month and into the new year so will try then. However as soon as I got back to Taiwan I was on the phone and the next day in for a meeting. It was one of the best meetings I have ever had. My work really impressed, a week later I was getting a commission for my first shoot for my latest client. The client is GQ Taiwan, prior to the actual shoot we met up a couple of times to discuss and scout locations. I got in touch with Choncy, she had wanted to assist on my Silkroad shoot and I'd said I would be in touch for the next one and so I was. We met and went through the lights and what was going to happen, I got an immediate good feeling about Choncy, she knows lighting having worked in film making for a while, but she isn't experienced with flash. She is attentive, keen and fun, so I knew I needn't worry about her during the shoot. The day of the shoot arrived and we all met up. Our model for the day was Taiwanese artist Huang Po-Chih, we were introduced and then all jumped in the van to hit the first spot. I don't think there is anything nicer for a photographer to hear from his/her client than "I love it" from the very first frame. The day continued at pace, not all the shots were so easy, by the end we were all tired, we made some really beautiful photographs and everyone was happy. The feature is in the current issue of GQ Taiwan and looks great. I am really looking forward to a continued and growing relationship with GQ as well as lots more shoots. Last week I popped in to pick up a couple of copies of the magazine and say hi, I was delighted to received an invite to attend this years GQ Taiwan Men of the Year Award, it will be great fun, and a chance to make new contacts, can't wait.

 Prior to the GQ shoot I had photographed an event, it was a good job and the clients were very happy with my work. I am never really more happy than when a client tells me I have done a good job and says thank you, oh and when the cheques come in ofcourse. They where so impressed with my work that I have been invited to go to a British Chamber of Commerce Taiwan (BCCT) meeting where I will get a chance to meet a good amount of possible new clients, this is a great opportunity, one I am looking forward to very much. Next week is set to be busy, interesting and good fun, with the GQ awards at the start and the BCCT meeting at then end, it is all good.

The weekend approaching I am away with the family to Sun Moon Lake and Alishan, two of Taiwan's most famous and beautiful locations. It will be lovely to get out and into the countryside for a couple of days, I have been to Sun Moon Lake a few times, as far as I know though, Alishan will be a new experience. I have looked at it before on line and know it is very beautiful, I just hope the weather is doing something that helps me make a good photograph.

I shot a few rolls of film (Fujifilm Provia 120) last week making Crystal's portrait and spent all day yesterday scanning the shots. There is something really satisfying about shooting on film, the feel still can't be replicated fully on digital cameras I think, perhaps I am just a romantic, but I will not apologise for that. The shots look gorgeous, I will definitely be running  rolls through my Mamiya RZ more regularly.

So as things continue to tick along nicely it has been great to look back over this, my first year in Asia. It has been a fantastic year. I feel like I have come quite a long way since packing that crate and stepping on the plane. I am extremely proud to count National Geographic, GQ, Bauer Media, plus a few others among my client list now. Being interviewed and featured by the WPO, and the upcoming feature in NGTUK is wonderful, all my hard work is getting recognised and is paying off, it feels great. I will try to keep my feet firmly on the ground, Mrs. L and my friends will no doubt give me a slap back to reality if I don't stay in check. I will continue to push myself as hard as I can and keep working to make the best photographs I can and be the best I can be for my clients, current and future. When this time comes again next year I hope that I have as many interesting experiences to tell you about, that I continue to shoot the editorial work and also start to build my commercial client base. That sounds like a good plan wouldn't you agree?

Without the appreciation and support I get from all my family, friends and people around the world who so kindly take the time to engage with me about my work, whether that is a "like"/"share" on facebook, a "+1" on Google+, "likes" and "follows" on Instagram, Tumblr and Twitter or actually writing to me and having a chat, it always feels wonderful, respect to all of you, thank you.

I will ask as I always do, please share my blog around as much as you can. I love to make photographs, I think the passion I have for my work is obvious to see. I do still need to make it work though so the more who see my work and my passion the better, hit the share buttons at the foot of this page..

If you have any questions or comments, there is a box bellow as are all the links you need to keep up to speed with what I am doing and the photographs I am making.

It goes without saying that I am always very interested in any work you may have for me, if you do have a shoot you want me to make for you don't hesitate to get in touch to discus what you need.

I really hope you all enjoyed this blog, I haven't written so much for a good while, it wasn't boring was it?

Until the next time....

Cheers,

Duncan.

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Macau, Hong Kong, a Portrait and a Holiday...

Macau, Hong Kong, a Portrait, and a Holiday!

Yes I know, it has been too long since my last blog. I do try I assure you but somehow or other I just get caught up with work and travel (which is often to do with work), so work then really. I thought I would make up for it with a photo heavy blog which covers pretty much what I did in the summer. I'll talk about little break to Wales with Mrs. L, on which we were joined by a couple of good friends for the first few days which was lovely. I had my first visit to Macau, and was once again back in Hong Kong where I made so me good contacts. These contacts led to work and more portraits for my series "The Collectors". I have already laid the foundation for my next blog, which takes a look back over my first year in Asia. I must say it is a good practice to do that as it would appear that I have done pretty well and hope very much to keep pushing on. However I am not going to talk more about that now, this blog is, as the title would suggest about Macau, Hong Kong, a portrait and a holiday, enjoy this...

Mrs L and I have a little game going on, it is to do with who has been to the most countries. My trip to Japan for National Geographic Traveller UK saw me take the lead by one country. When she asked would I like to go to Macau it was a no brainer. Firstly I had never been there before and secondly it would increase my lead...it'd be silly not too right? So off we went....

Man this place reminded me of Vegas at first, you could so easily get to one of the larger hotels and never have to leave for your entire visit. We stayed an the Sheraton, it had everything you could ask for. A connection to a shopping mall with food hall, a gym, two areas of pool facilities, each with multiple pools, multiple restaurants and of course a large gaming floor. The main game in Macau is baccarat, it is fast, fairly simple and makes the house a fortune from the millions of punters that flock in from mainland China and around the world every year. We looked, but I know better than to sit and play, plus I am no where near a position to throw my money at the turn of a card, not yet anyway.

The view from the one of the pools, ok I was in an area I shouldn't have been, and climbed out onto a glass roof, but if that's what it takes to get the shot, then I am going there.

Not really feeling the need to just hang around the hotel and lounge (I rarely do), I decided to make a walk to a beach. In all I walked about 20km as the sun rose, it was humid, I was hot and with all my kit to carry it was hard work. I am always glad to make the effort, yes the dawn could have been nicer and the beach more beautiful, but it was just lovely to hear the jungle waking up, the waves splashing and see the sand with no foot prints.

I say no footprints, there were these....

As I walked along the beach, I saw a pile of rocks and concrete blocks, it was only when I was on top of these I became aware that I was being watched. At first it was just a couple, but soon I realised I was standing on the local stray dogs den. There were a lot of them, and I was in their territory and no messing, it was tense. I had my tripod in my hand and was about ready to go if they attacked, the barking and growling had started as the pack woke up and became alert to my presence. I guess there were probably 10-15 of them, enough to make me concentrate at least. I thought, I have to do something, so I went on the offensive. They growled and but shouted louder and advanced on them. To my relief it worked and they backed off, most went back into the gaps under the rocks, with just a couple standing guard and keeping an eye on me. I had made it clear not to mess with me and after a while they realised I wasn't there to bother them and began to ignore me completely....Phew.

The dogs weren't the only strays on the beach, still at least there are facilities...

In the evening, I suggested that Mrs. L and I head into the older part of town. I wanted to see the old lighthouse and we had been told by a very helpful concierge of a good Portuguese restaurant. The Portuguese had occupied Macau, and the influence is all around in the older parts. The evening sees all sorts of people taking exercise around the old light house, there aren't too many hills around Macau so the view from this one is well worth the little effort to walk up to it.  

View from the lighthouse hill over Macau...

We walked around to try and find out how to get into the Lighthouse, it appeared to be closed. I saw a security guard and asked him how to get in, he confirmed it was closed. To our surprise he then said "hold on" and came down to the door. He was about to go to get his dinner and to our delight said we could come in and hang around for a bit while he ate. What a great security guard, we were over the moon to have the place to ourselves, what a top lad.

The Old Lighthouse... 

View over Macau with the Lisboa standing golden and to the left the A.J.Hackett Macau Tower, home of the worlds highest bungee jump, and yes I am going to have a go next time I am there.

The Old Lighthouse, and below another view over Macau, this time showing some of the older areas...

Dinner was lovely, the advice was good. The restaurant is owned and run by an ex Portuguese Naval Chef. There is a good wine selection, the food is well cooked and honest. No it isn't a Michelin stared experience, but I assure you it is worth a visit. Oh yeah, almost forgot the place is; O Santos, on Rua de Cunha, No. 20, Taipa Island.

The evening was warm, so we chose to walk back to the hotel, it was a lovely way to spend the last night in Macau, I look forward to seeing more of it soon.

And so back to Hong Kong, and oh my gosh it was hot. I will be honest and say that on this trip to Hong Kong, I found it pretty heavy going. The heat was intense, teamed with the busy streets, it was hard work. I had picked up a copy of a magazine and made an appointment for a meeting with the publishers, it went well and has already led to one job, a portrait shoot. Hopefully there will be more to come, but again I am not going to write about that this time. For now I will just caption these and let you enjoy them....

Out on the streets in Hong Kong.

Locals lunch just off Stanley Street.

Stall holders near Stanley Street.

When the sun is fierce, it's is wise to bring your own shade.

I don't think I will ever get bored of the views over Kowloon and Hong Kong.

Feeling nosy whilst staying at a friends apartment on Hollywood Road. 

Hong Kong can feel like a labyrinthine from time to time. 

Dawn over Mongkok.

The view from Cathay Pacific lounge of Hong Kong airport whilst waiting for my plane home.

Not long after I moved to Taiwan, I met a writer named Joe Henley. Not only is Joe a writer, he is a talented musician, and sings with a few punk bands, one of which is called Revilement. Joe is a cool guy and pretty driven, he recently released his first novel, "Sons of the Republic". I had previously photographed Joe for my Collectors Series as he has a love of vinyl, not surprising really with his musical links. I was more than happy when Joe contacted me and commissioned a portrait shoot for his book jacket. The book is a good read, he is already well on the way to completing his second novel and is currently writing for a T.V series, among other things. You can get your hands on a copy of his first book here: Sons of the Republic by J.W. Henley, I have been reading it, and can say it is pretty good, so check it out.

It had been a pretty busy spell, what with the pool parties, shooting portraits both commissioned and personal. Making promotional photographs for bands and all the usual running around I have to do. It was music to my ears when Mrs. L suggested we take a week off in Wales. It's a bit odd if you think about it, when I was in the UK all the time, I wanted to go somewhere warm and exotic. Now I want to go to somewhere remote, possibly cold and wet and in the UK. I am actually not sure how Wales has got the reputation for being wet, I have been many times and can say, in my experience it hasn't really rained much, if at all while I have been there.

We had a wonderful week, great food, good walks, log fires, country darkness and plenty of fresh air. Mrs. L caught her first trout, a wild brown on the Usk. Our guide Kim Tribe, was excellent, he supplied us with all the gear and plenty of patience (Find Kim here: Fly Fishing Wales). I said to him that it was more important to me that the wife caught her first trout than it was for me to catch. I was gutted when I missed my only real take of the day, but over the moon for Mrs. L when she managed to hook into a fine fish all on her own, and land it. It had been a warm summer with little rain and the river was on it's bones, tough conditions indeed. They do say that the ladies make the better fly fishermen, or should that be fisherwomen? ether way, she rocked it, and looked great in waders too.

I also managed to get her out pre-dawn and off into the chill morning as the sun rose over the Wye Valley. I will leave you with the shots from that morning, just before I go though don't foget your comments are important to me and welcomed. It would be great if you can take a second and share this far and wide, I want everyone to see it. Next time, as mentioned at the start I will be looking back over my first year, it will be a good one I promise, so until then, contact and follow me via the links. Thank you as ever for all the support, for taking the time to look at my work and read my waffle if you do. 

Respect and love.

Cheers,

Duncan.

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Sunrise over the Wye Valley.

Japan for National Geographic and Hard Drive Horror!

Japan for National Geographic and Hard Drive Horror!

A few months ago when I was last in the UK, one of the magazines I contacted was National Geographic Traveller (Nat Geo). You will already be aware of this if you have read my blog before, but for those who haven't here is the catch up.

I left the UK last year for a new life in Taiwan, almost a year ago in fact. In the UK I specialised ed in editorial portraiture, and although I still love to meet people and shoot portraits (I just shot 6 portraits in Hong Kong, more about that next time), I realise there is an opportunity to branch out toward travel work too. With Travel photography I not only get to meet and photograph wonderful people it offers new experiences and adventures around the world and is so much fun. If you are familiar with my work then you know I enjoy getting in amongst it wherever I am, be it on the street or up in the hills and mountains, I just love it. Even better when there are chances to meet the locals and hang out, no matter if we can't speak the same language verbally, body language and a big smile is the best way as everyone understands that.

You can imagine then that I was over the moon when I got a call from Nat Geo requesting me to head over to Japan (somewhere I had not been before and always wanted to go.) on assignment. I was to make shots of Tsukiji Fish Market, shots around Tokyo's street food scene and then head off to the picturesque Hakone. Hakone is an area about 90 minutes from Tokyo, it is famous for the traditional Ryokan (Japanese hot spring pools), it is also a stunning area with wonderful views of Mount Fuji and Lake Ashi close by.

I got confirmation of the job, time was tight so I got busy booking hotels and flights. I asked Eva Air if they could do me a deal, they tried but it wasn't to be this time. The best option was Cathay Pacific, I fly Cathay almost all the time so was very happy  to be flying with them again. I managed to find a couple of nights very cheap in a tiny room near Tsukiji, it was about as basic as it gets but I was on a tight budget,  needing to be up super early to get the market shots and not wanting to travel halfway across Tokyo I was happy to accept a simple room with a bed and bathroom. So it was 2 nights in Tokyo then off to Hakone where I stayed in a reasonable hotel on the first night, and then had an amazing experience with the Hotel Kai Hakone. The hotel Kai Hakone is part of the Hoshino Resorts group hotels (http://global.hoshinoresort.com/), they were very generous, apologising that they could only accommodate me for one night. The hotel was so beautiful, the food was amazing and topping it off I was guided through the whole experience by the most wonderful Mami Sato, she could not have been more helpful, friendly and fun to work with whilst photographing the Hotel and the food. Big thank you to Mami, all at the Kai and Ms Izutani for your generosity and hospitality. 

The article appears in the current (October 2014) edition of National Geographic Traveller, I was fortunate enough to catch the folks from the magazine during this trip to the UK, and am looking forward to many more assignments from them over the coming year and beyond. Here are a few of the photographs I made during that trip. As soon as I am back in Taiwan I will be posting a Japan gallery on my website, keep your eyes out for those, for now though enjoy these...

The view over Tokyo from the Metropolitan Government Building.

Tuna is cut and graded at the bustling Tsukiji Fish Market. 

Having flown in the day before, spent the night shooting the street food scene and then up at 3:30am to get to the market. I was glad to get out without being run over by one of the crazy trolley drivers, believe me, that place is frantic. I really had to have my wits about me, I was there to make photographs, these guys are there to do their daily job and could not care less for little old me.

It looked like madness but it works for them, trolley drivers at Tsukiji Fish Market.

I had read that you needed to get up early to get a ticket and be guided around the market. Heading there for 4am, I thought it would be obvious and I'd see the queue to get on the tour. Before I knew it though I was into the market having missed the ticket office completely. I only spotted it on the way out, for your information should you wish to visit, it is on the left as you cross the bridge into the market. I would recommend getting a ticket and taking the tour, I am sure it would be much safer. Finding myself in the market I figured I best just get to work. I spent two hours in the market making photographs before I got spotted by security and asked to leave. No bother, I had the shots and then some, the only thing left to do at 6am in Tsukiji is go and get the best Sushi available anywhere for breakfast...yum and what a way to make Mrs. L jealous, sushi just ain't the same anywhere else.

The Itamae of Sushi creates the freshest, tastiest sushi available at Tsukiji Fish Market, great for a hard working photographer's breakfast.

Back to bed for a few hours and then in the afternoon I took a walk around Yoyogi Park near Tokyo's famous Harajuku area. The park is on the site of Japan's first powered flight, consists of extensive grounds which are lovely to walk around and also holds the Meiji Shrine. The shrine, constructed of Japanese Cyprus wood was constructed to commemorate the Emperor's role in the Meiji restoration and was built in an iris garden that Emperor Meiji and his wife Empress Shoken had been known to visit.

The Iris gardens stretch on in the wonderfully tranquil grounds around the Meiji Shrine.

Yoyogi park provides a lovely restful place to wander and relax whilst in Tokyo, although Tokyo is one of the most populace capitals in the world, it seemed very relaxed and open to me. The chance to really slow down and enjoy the manicured garden around the traditional tea house, make a prayer at the Meiji Shrine and see traditional tea ceremonies being taught to a whole new generation was a fabulous way to spend an afternoon. A real contrast to the maniacal action at the fish market. 

Landscaped gardens display topiary work which leads you up to the Tea House.

After a morning learning the fine art of the Japanese tea ceremony, traditionally dressed girls giggle as they walk past the Meiji Shrine.

I was back to the streets that evening and once again the delights of street food. When we are in Taiwan, you will often find Mrs. L and I out for dinner in one of the excellent Japanese Beer Houses in Taipei. Freshly grilled mouthfuls of fantastic variety served along with cold draft beer, what could be better. If you aren't familiar with this style of eating I guess you could compare it to Spanish Tapas. Heading to the beer house is fun whether on your own, on a date or with a group of friends.

It was around Shinjuku and Shambashi that I wandered into this smokey fragrant tunnel under the railway. Beer houses on either side and a lively custom, I was more than happy to be seated opposite a local on a small table. The food was good and the beer cold and refreshing, what a cool place to enjoy a bite and watch the nightly flow of office workers out to unwind, I'll certainly hand it to the residents of Tokyo, they know how to enjoy a drink.

Under the arches, smoke from the grill fills the tunnel beneath the railway with smells guaranteed to make you salivate.

Hot, smokey and hectic, the grill chef works flat out to get the orders made and out to the hungry mouths.

Leaving Tokyo behind on the super smooth direct train to Hakone Machi, wistfully named "The Romancecar", it wasn't long until I found myself pulling my bag through the small, pretty town up to my hotel for the night. There was a business function, and the hotel was pretty full. Being a Ryokan, there were a selection of naturally fed hot spring pools. The hotel had alot of rooms, but sadly not enough lifts, dinner is served in your room and I was concerned that I was going to miss it as I had been out for a short walk. Myself, and a group of lively Japanese ladies were patiently waiting for the lift in the lobby which was taking an inordinate amount of time to arrive. There was a member of hotel staff calling the lift and also announcing it's arrival, seems a bit unnecessary I thought, but not unusual in Japan. The lift arrived and the doors opened, the lift lady launched into her patter welcoming us to the lift, the response she got from myself an the lively ladies was not what she expected, we all started having a fit of the giggles. Wondering what we were laughing at she looked at what the opening doors had revealed and was presented with a wall of elderly Japanese men, all wearing Yukata (traditional Japanese robe worn when relaxing.). Clearly they had meant to go to the 8th floor and the hot spring pools, I was laughing at the site of a lift full of old men in dressing gowns looking confused, I suspect the Japanese ladies found the fact that these men were incapable of reading the floors and pressing the correct button more amusing. Having spent time on the train next to a group of mature Japanese ladies who gossipped and giggle whilst eating their delightful looking home prepared lunches and now sharing this giggly moment with some more I have fallen in love a little with their fun attitude toward life and us less capable of genders.

After a full day travel and knowing that I was in for an early start (taxi booked for 3:30 am), I was only too happy to find my dinner waiting for me in my room and then enough time to head to the open air hot spring pools for a relaxing soak beneath the stars.

With typical Japanese punctuality, I found the taxi waiting for me and headed off as the first light started to creep over the horizon. I wanted to get to Onshihakone Park, from my research it appeared this would offer the best views for the sunrise photograph I was keen to make. To my dismay the concerns I had about the strong UV haze I had seen on the way to Hakone the day before proved true. The UV was very strong, causing a real problem but I only had this one chance to get the shot. This is the down side of a tight schedule, no choice but to do what I could. In the days of film a UV filter popped onto the lens would help but they are less effective in the digital age, so I don't carry them.

The shots are far from great, however for me it was a lovely place to stand, all alone and watch the sun rise and light the top of Mount Fuji over the rolling hills and lake. Sorry the shots aren't perfect, with more time comes extra opportunities, if you live near a beautiful spot then it pays to visit again and again as I have mentioned before.

Mount Fuji is illuminated through the haze by the dawn sun.

Thankfully the haze did improve but it was too late for the dawn golden hour, however I did envy this lone fisherman casting his line, there were plenty of fish rising, next time I am there my fly rods are coming for sure.

Hoping for an early bite on Lake Ashi, Hakone.

Check out was set for 10am, I asked for an extension and was told that I would be charged. Although Hotel Okada was a nice, if somewhat dated hotel, the staff and service were not great. When I first arrived at the hotel for check in it was 11:45, check is not until 12:00. I travel a lot and stay in many hotels, every time I have arrived early, if the room is unavailable they at least take my details and offer to hold my baggage for me so I can find somewhere to relax. Not the case with Hotel Okada, they told me to wait along with a large group of other people experiencing the same thing whilst the check in staff just stood doing nothing until 12:00. 15 minutes is not a hardship by any means, but I thought it would be obvious that checking people in and then asking them to wait is preferable, as opposed to asking them to wait and then having a very busy period and a queue, but who am I to question other folks logic?  

Thankfully I was heading on to the Kai Hakone, I had been excited by this prospect since it was offered to me and glad to be having it at the end of my trip. Who wouldn't enjoy a bit of luxury at the end of 4 very busy days. I asked the Okada desk staff which was the best way to get to the hotel, with their consummate efficiency then sent me off into town armed with the incorrect bus information. To really add insult to injury, once I had managed to get the correct bus and travel to the Kai Hakone, it turned out I could have walked there in about 5 minutes from Hotel Okada.

Walking down the drive to the Kai Hakone entrance was all I needed to do to begin to feel it's charms taking hold of me. The hotel is set back from the road down into the river valley and surrounded by lush green forest. In total contrast to the staff at Okada, the staff at Kai Hakone could not be more welcoming. They knew I was there for Nat Geo, however I don't think this made any difference as all the staff seemed to really love their work and working at the hotel. 

I was a little early, having confirmed it was ok I began to make my photographs of the reception area, as you can see it is a bright, airy and spacious entrance lobby. With excellent coffee on tap, a display of Yosegi-zaiku (traditional Japanese woodwork) which is available to try to produce for yourself in the evenings and a small library, I had no trouble relaxing as I awaited my meeting and the agreed photographic schedule to commence.

The reception lobby at the Hotel Kai Hakone.

Mami Sato was to be my guide and assistant for the day around the hotel, I don't think anyone could have been nicer and more helpful than her. We had good fun all day shooting everything from hotel interiors, hot spring pools and the exquisitely delicate Kaiseki. I can assure you it not only looked good as I was honoured to be served this dinner by Mami Sato that evening, it was delicious.

Beautiful Kaiseki dinner, Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner, consisting of about 13 different small delights.

After making the photographs and before dinner I took advantage of the hot spring pool, having the pool to myself was an added bonus, Whilst soaking in the mineral rich water I was able to reflect on my trip to Japan. It had been a whirlwind of crazy messed up sleep pattern and non stop photography, it is often the case as a travel photographer that you don't really get to enjoy the places you are in as you are concentrating on making photographs. Yes of course you have to look and be in touch with what is going on around you, you have to be in that moment. However in the back of your head is always thoughts of camera settings, angles and compositions, is the background clear...blah blah blah. So enjoying the travel as a tourist may, is not so easy. For this hour though as I lay there I was able to think about all I had seen and experienced. The crazy fish market, hitting the streets of Tokyo, chatting with the touts offering late night fun in the lively streets near Shinjuku, having a few drinks with locals who spoke no English in a little beer house. It had been a wonderful experience, I decided that I would come back on a non work trip (as if I never travel without my camera.), and hopefully Mrs. L will join me.

Baskets for your belongings by the lady's hot spring pool. (Hotel Kai Hakone)

Looking back in to the lady's hot spring pool from the open front which offers forest views. (Hotel Kai Hakone)

A wonderful view from the men's hot spring pool. (Hotel Kai Hakone)

Needless to say I had a wonderful nights sleep, I did feel a bit embarrassed having to be woken up for my breakfast. I had quite forgotten I was getting a lovely breakfast too, to add to this Mami Sato had gone to the effort to get me some Natto. Natto is the Marmite of Japan, you either love it or you hate it. It is made from fermented soya beans, and for me I am afraid not something I could really take to, the flavor is nice, but the texture, uh ah, not my cup of tea. Still don't be put off, we should always try things, you never know you may love it.

Waving farewell to Mami and heading to the train station, I was a little sad to be leaving Japan. My schedule was tight but well planned, I felt confident I would make the flight ok. It was only when I got the the train station that this all went a little topsy turvy. A very rare occurrence in Japan had happened, a derailment. I had to change my plan completely, getting into Tokyo on the slower train I was a little stressed, only to find that to get to the airport meant a slightly more complicated trip on two more trains. I was off my map and not sure if I would get off at the correct stop. My faith in human nature came to fruition once again however as a lovely Japanese man, seeing my predicament wrote out my entire journey , including exact times of arrival at each station all the way to the airport, what a total gentleman, so big thank you to him, give than man a suit of armour.

Having dragged my suitcase with my heavy camera bag on my back for hours, I was a little dishevelled when I arrived at the Cathay Pacific check in desk. I was greeted with an apology, "I am sorry Mr. Longden but due to economy being over booked we have had to move you into business class, is that ok?",  Errrr yes! Thank you very much indeed Cathay Pacific, once again you prove yourselves to be a great airline. Hitting the showers in the business lounge was just what I needed, it wasn't long until I was on the flight and we were heading away from Japan., but we were gifted with one last joy as we left. Over the tannoy came an announcement from the captain, "Ladies and Gentleman, if you look out of the right hand windows you will see a lovely view of Mount Fuji, I have to agree, it certainly was a beautiful sight.

Mount Fuji as I left Japan, happily seated in business class thanks to Cathay Pacific.

Thank you National Geographic Traveller for sending me on this assignment, and thank you Japan for being everything I expected and more, I look forward to returning and seeing much much more time and time again. It is a beautiful place with beautiful people.

The title of this blog suggests there was a horror awaiting me, this horror slapped me back to reality pretty hard. I got home, fired up my PC and discovered my primary hard drive had crashed. None of the photographs I had been working on over the last 6 months were there any more, it was empty, a void where once had been the spoils of hours and hours of work. This has been a nightmare of mine for a long time and now it was a reality.

When I turned pro a few years ago I invested in a 3tb external hard drive and had thankfully been importing duplicate copies of my RAW files. I am not always the most organised and some files had gone into folders of the wrong name, but at least they were there somewhere. That real kick between the legs was that I had not backed up the post production I had done, this means that I am now looking at hours and hours doing it all again.

I don't like to dwell on the negatives, so embrace the lesson learnt. I now have unlimited online storage, this backs up as files change so all my work is safe on there. I invested in a second 3tb external hard drive, spent a week working through the first one, re-organising and renaming all the folders, I now have mirrored 3tb hard drives. It was a hard lesson, but it could have been a lot worse so I am thankful for that. I get to practice my Photoshop and Lightroom processing more, although it can be laborious, practice makes perfect. Most importantly I learnt to be rigorously thorough when importing files, and also backing up any post work I have done. Anyone starting out in this world take note and learn from other people's mistakes before you make your own.

My work from Japan is in the current issue (October 2014) of National Geographic Traveller, the app version should be out soon and has more photographs.

If you are heading out to Japan and are wanting a wonderful relaxing place to stay during your trip I would highly recommend The Hotel Kai Hakone. Follow this link to make your booking: 

http://global.hoshinoresort.com/kai_hakone/ If you do stay there please send Mami Sato my regards.

If you like my blog please share it to all you know. If you want to discuss anything, leave a comment and let me know what you think.

Should you want to book me then get in touch via my website: www.duncanlongden.photography  all my contact details can be found there.

For regular shots from where I am in the world check me out on Instagram: http://instagram.com/duncan_photo 

Thank you all for your interest and ongoing support for my work, it really means a lot to me. Once again as ever I will try and blog again soon, on the cards for subjects are a recent trip to Maccau, back again in Hong Kong where I made 6 portraits for the ongoing and ever enjoyable Collectors series, my series based on vinyl enthusiasts and an actual holiday in the stunning Brecon Beacons in Wales. Not to mention more meetings with editors (hopefully more work will come my way soon), a portrait shoot for Silksroad, the Dragon Air in flight magazine, and another one for a great writer friend for his first novel. That should be enough to keep these interesting, which I hope they are.

Until the next time, take it easy, have fun and remember wherever we come from, we are all the essentially the same.